Tag Archives: Little San Salvador

Spanish Wells to Stuart

We arrived back in Florida at the end of May. Guess I was a little lazy about writing the last post of the 2015 cruising season, because here it is the middle of October and I am getting around to documenting the end of our last season while we are planning our 2016 Bahamas Cruise.

We left Spanish Wells after a fantastic visit with my son Peter who flew into Eleuthera and joined us for the rest of the cruise. We then sailed from Royal Island, near Spanish Wells, to Chub Cay on May 19, leaving at 0645 and dropping the anchor at 1515. This was Peter’s first opportunity to sail with us in the Bahamas and luckily we had perfect calm seas. We stayed at Chub Cay one night and the next day sailed to Bimini, leaving at 0550 in the dark and tying up to the dock at Bimini Sands at 1650. 

Here are several photos of our crossing from Chub Cay and entering the waters of Bimini. In the third picture, the red rooftops of the condos surrounding the marina at Bimini Sands Resort and Marina are visible. Sailor had been there before and I am fairly certain he recognized it, or at least he said to himself with a smile, “Land Ho!”

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We stayed in Bimini two days and enjoyed the north and south islands. Peter snorkeled on the beach from Bimini Sands to the southern end of of South Bimini. He saw some fantastic underwater scenes, so next time we are there we’ll have to try it ourselves. Oddly after many visits to Bimini we had never snorkeled the reefs. Of course, we had to show Peter The Dolphin House in North Bimini, and he was impressed. He said he hopes to go back someday and rent a room from Mr. Saunders. We saw Mark’s last Minnesota license plate from his Corvette on one of the walls.  We donated it to Ashley Saunders’ collection of many car license plates two years ago. In his museum, we read the famous quotes he had mounted on the ceiling. To see more photos of The Dolphin House from our previous website, click here.

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One of the prettiest views in Bimini is from the Dolphin House. Mr. Saunders told us that a man from China recently approached him about buying The Dolphin House. Of course, it will always be in the Saunders family as it is a labor of love which he will no doubt continue working on until he can’t physically do it anymore. We will visit every time we go to Bimini to see the latest additions.

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When we stay in South Bimini, we take a very short water taxi ride to North Bimini. We always look for two white Golden Retrievers, who live outside by the water and fish for their food! Yes, we have seen them dive for fish and bring them ashore. They seem pretty healthy so perhaps the locals provide them with other food. We especially like watching these dogs because Sailor’s grandfather is a white English Golden Retriever.

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On May 22, 2015, we left Bimini Sands at 0610. Sailor was glad to spot land as we neared Lake Worth  that afternoon and  entered the channel.

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At 1410 we dropped the anchor near the Lake Worth Inlet after a very calm crossing.  We dinghied over to the park on Peanut Island to stretch our legs. The next morning at 0630, we left the Lake Worth anchorage with a beautiful sunrise in the sky, and started up the ICW to Stuart. We love being able to go under the 65 foot bridges and through the lift bridges while looking at the gorgeous homes along the route. We do not like being waked by speeding powerboats and fishing boats, and as always we seem to end up going on this leg of the trip on a dreaded South Florida weekend when they are out in force. As we entered the ICW, numerous fishing boats were ready to race out onto the ocean.  Later in the day, Sailor seemed to be a little bored, but Peter had a talk with him and they relaxed for the rest of the trip.

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Finally, at noon we pulled into our slip at Sunset Bay Marina, where we have spent hurricane seasons for the last four years. It’s called Sunset Bay for a reason. (That is a power cat in the next slip, not Seas the Day.)

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Thus ended our fourth Bahamas Cruise and our seventh year living aboard S/V Seas the Day. We spent the other three winters in Corpus Christi, the Florida Keys up to the Gulf Coast of Florida, and one season in Miami and Ft.  Lauderdale as we waited to have our hybrid catamaran converted to twin diesels. 2015 was a very different cruising season as we visited new places in the Bahamas and spent three months on a mooring ball in Georgetown. We boat buddied with good friends Tom and Cathie (Interlude) meeting up with them and spending Christmas together in South Beach, Miami,  then sailing together all the way to Georgetown, The Exumas, then back north with stops in Long Island, Cat Island, Little San Salvador, Eleuthera, and finally to Spanish Wells where Interlude continued to Abaco and we stayed in Spanish Wells.  We learned to play Texas Hold-em in Georgetown and played three times a week! We met a lot of new friends and hope to see most of them again in 2016. Sailor, of course, met his BFF, Portuguese Water Dog Zorro aboard M/V All In (Vivian and Chris). He’s never enjoyed playing with another dog this much and hopefully they’ll reunite this season. As we love doing, we spent the last month in Spanish Wells, renting a golf cart and staying on a mooring ball. The highlight of that month was having my son Peter visit, which added to the excitement and caused us to enjoy some new experiences.  He almost didn’t make it though, because after taking the Red Eye from San Francisco, at the Ft. Lauderdale Airport he wasn’t allowed on the plane to Eleuthera without a return ticket to the U.S. When he called us as the plane was loading (thank goodness he knew our Bahamas phone number), we were able to email a copy of our cruising permit to prove to the airline people that he did have a way back to the States. In Spanish Wells, a definite highlight was when we hired James, owner of Spanish Wells Bahamas Ocean Safaris, for a phenomenal day on the water, snorkeling, diving, swimming, finding conch and shells, watching James spear our fish for dinner, and playing on a huge sandbar.  Having Peter sail back to Stuart with us also added to the uniqueness of our 2015 Bahamas Cruise.

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First Visit to Cat Island

Normally when we leave Georgetown, we go out to the deep water of the Exuma Sound and follow the shore of Great Exuma north to a cut into the shallow water of the Banks on the west side of the islands. We try to avoid sailing on the Sound except for this one leg since there are generally higher waves and rougher water than on the Banks. Once in shallow water, we continue north to stop at islands we didn’t visit on the way south a few months earlier. We take more time to swim, snorkel, kayak, and hike at some of our favorite destinations in the Exumas. Then we cross from Warderick Wells to Eleuthera. This year we decided to take a different route. We left Georgetown and crossed the Exuma Sound sailing northeast to Cat Island. From there we went to Little San Salvador and on to Eleuthera.

Cat Island was settled in 1783 by the Loyalists. It was named after pirate Arthur Catt who made many stops on the island. Another claim to fame for the residents of Cat Island is that actor Sidney Poitier was born here. It is 48 miles long and 1 1/4 miles wide. We made three stops on Cat Island: New Bight, Fernandez Bay, and Bennett’s Harbor.

New Bight was chosen so we could visit a monastery called The Hermitage which was built by Monsignor Jerome Hawkes, also known as Father Jerome. He came to the Bahamas as an architect and an Anglican priest to repair Long Island Anglican churches and later was ordained as a Roman Catholic Priest. In 1930, at age 62, he built the Hermitage on Mt. Alvernia in Cat Island. He named the high hill after one in Tuscany where St. Francis received the wounds of the cross. From a distance the monastery looks huge, but once we climbed the steep hill to the top, 206 ft above sea level, we realized it is a scaled down model with four small enclosed rooms: a bedroom, living area, chapel and kitchen. There is also an open air bathroom and a bell tower. Father Jerome’s monastery includes a guest building and the grave where the priest is buried.  Below are photos of the Hermitage beginning with the sign on the main road near our anchored boats.

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Mark, Cathie, Tom, Sailor and I walked up the road to the Hermitage. In the distance is the monastery at the top of the hill.

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Next we left the road to walk up a path. This is the entrance to the steep, rocky path.

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 At a fork, we chose a path that went past the Stations of the Cross, hand carved by Father Jerome.

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The path continued and became much steeper. I stopped and waited by the stations of the cross  because I knew it wasn’t safe to go any further with my recent total knee replacements. The path ended and there were very steep hand carved stone steps leading to the monastery.

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This is the view approaching the Hermitage.

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Tom, Cathie, Sailor and Mark came back down the hill by a more gradual path. Mark and I went back up choosing the safer way at the fork in the path to the Hermitage. Here we are in front of the monastery’s bell tower. This demonstrates the small size of Father Jerome’s rooms. The Atlantic Ocean is visible on the other side of Cat Island. He had a 360 degree view of the area from his monastery.

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 It’s hard to image how he was able to construct the intricately designed monastery, but recalling that he was also an architect it is understandable that each room was built for a specific purpose no larger than he needed them to be. He built this monastery to live in for the rest of his life and he was looking for solitude. 

His chapel has a chair and desk to sit at as well as an altar.

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Sailor enjoyed the cool shade of the bell tower.

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A ladder leads up to the top of the bell tower. As I was waiting for the group to return to me, I heard the working bell ringing.

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This window looks down at the road we walked on to get to the Hermitage. You can’t see the steep path because it is under the window.

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Father Jerome built his personal monastery stone by stone. From left to right, the rooms are the bell tower, his chapel, the living area and the kitchen, an open area with pillars and carved quotes and at the far right his bedroom. The words “Beata Solitudo” mean “blessed solitude” and he carved this into the area with pillars.  Amazing and well worth the long hike to the top of the hill.

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He even built a guest house. It contains two fireplaces, one outside and one inside the building. There are also fireplaces in each of the monastery’s rooms. 

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Father Jerome died in 1956. He is buried on the property of The Hermitage.

Our next stop was a short sail away in Fernandez Bay, where there is a beautiful beach and lovely resort. We had dinner at the resort with our boat buddies Cathie and Tom (Interlude). 

Before dinner we watched a stunning sunset over the bay where our two boats and one more were anchored.

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We were the only dinner guests who weren’t staying at the resort. The dinner was a delicious buffet but the best part was the ambiance of the resort and of course the company of our good friends Cathie and Tom. By the way, Cathie and I did not plan to dress alike! We sat inside because when we arrived it was much cooler than the patio seating and our table was open to the water just like those on the patio.

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The dining room was in a stunning thatched roof building with intricate designs in the ceiling. 

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 Another short sail the next day brought us to Bennett’s Harbor. This destination was chosen mainly as a place to anchor where we could leave Cat Island the following day and reach Little San Salvador. There were houses on the beach by our anchorage, so we took the dinghy for a ride in a channel running though nearby mangroves. Returning to Bennett’s Harbor, we found another beach, totally deserted with powdery white sand. Sailor was free to fetch his ball and we could swim in the shallow warm water.

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After all this fun, we returned to our anchored boat to get ready to leave in the morning.

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Little San Salvador is a private island for several lines of cruise ships. When we arrived in the early afternoon, a Carnival ship was anchored and the next morning a Holland America cruise ship arrived. After the ships leave at 4 pm, cruisers anchored nearby are allowed to go ashore. 

Sailor could have had “boat envy” as we anchored near the cruise ship when he seemed to stare longingly at the huge vessel. He would love racing down the decks on that ship. The passengers were brought back and forth from the ship to the shore all day in small ferries seen next to the big ship. 

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One of many onshore activities for the ship passengers was horseback riding on the beach and nearby trails. Others snorkeled, walked on the beach, visited the various buildings built for their use, ate food, swam, and sunbathed.

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After the cruise ship left the private island, we re-anchored closer to the beach and went ashore in our dinghies. There was only one other boat there besides Seas the Day and Interlude. Sailor loved running on the deserted beach. We had to watch out for the big tractor smoothing the sand on the beach. We also kept him away from the stalls where the horses live.

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To cool off we all went swimming in the crystal clear water. Behind us on the shore you can see the  buildings used for the visitors from the cruise ships.

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Naturally the water and sandy beaches are beautiful, a big consideration when cruise ships buy their private islands. Of course, before it was purchased this was no doubt a fantastic place for cruisers to stop and spend a few days when crossing from Cat Island to Eleuthera. Now, visitors on private boats  have to wait until 1600 to come ashore and leave by 0800 the next morning if another ship is arriving or at least move out of the way. In the Bahamas, all beaches are public up to the high tide water line and no one can stop you from anchoring anywhere, except in the Land and Sea Park in The Exumas. Permanent workers stay on the island, and they were very welcoming when we came to their beach. The only consideration in anchoring on Little San Salvador is to stay out of the way of the ferries delivering people to and from the islands.

imageWe left at 0730 the next morning and passed a Holland America cruise ship pulling into the anchorage as we sailed towards Eleuthera.